::Extreme Summit Team - EVEREST 2007::

-30.05.2007.
Everest 2007 Expedition members have finally returned to Belgrade. We enclose several photographs from a formal reception at Nikola Tesla airport in Belgrade.

An organisation of welcome event has commenced. The Expedition Leader, Dragan Jacimovic has called from Katmandu to confirm arrival: Belgrade airport “Nikola Tesla”, 30^th May 2007. at 19.20hrs Olympic airline, flight from Athens. We use this opportunity to invite all of you who dearly supported our expedition over the last two months to join us and welcome great people who made us so happy and proud.

The last two days, I have spent trying to inspect the equipment that had arrived from the mountain. Second problem is even worse. We do not know the day of our return home. We keep trying to rebook flight tickets. By the end of May, this seems to be very difficult. I spent couple of hours sitting and begging for some understanding in Quatar Airways. It seems that the only remaining option is to fly to Athens in two separate groups. Then on 30th May, we should all take evening flight to Belgrade. This option seems to be the most certain. They promised to confirm it by this evening.

We managed to obtain not only CS2 but also CS3 Photoshop! Please find newly enclosed photographs and have in mind that we really worked hard to send them to you. Yesterday night, our Sherpas, assistants, friends and our team celebrated successful climb at Mt. Everest. We deserve it after so much effort. No doubt that every success has to be celebrated.

Celebration of successful achievements simply backs up successes that are yet to come.

Somehow, we managed to get back to Kathmandu. In front of our tired team, dying to have shower, city gates were blocked, burning tyres all over the place and young people shouting some slogans. After three hours, we managed to get to out hotel. Not too bad. I found out that Iswari somehow rebooked six tickets for 28th May. Tomorrow is non-working but the following day (Sunday) is working day. We will try to rebook remaining three tickets for the same flight. It seems to be easier to climb Everest then rebook tickets for flights from Kathmandu by the end of May. What can I say? Obviously, we are rushing home…

Late in the afternoon, Marko and I went to Deepak for haircutting and shaving. Petar is the only remaining ‘Robinson Crusoe’. He says he wants to look like authentic alpinist at arrival to Belgrade! Format of Petar’s photographs from sunrise to the summit is a real headache. It is in RAV format rather than NEF extension. His intention was to make 15mb photographs but now we can neither open nor convert to JPEG format!!

It is hard to get hold of proper software and sort out current problem over here. To make it worse, camera that he used is Nikon D200. We intend to search for Adobe Photoshop CS2 and appropriate drivers to make everything work tonight. I hope we will get it sorted until tomorrow.

Immediately after breakfast I went to communication officer to regulate our debts for extra yaks and take certificates for those who climbed Mt. Everest. We arranged that off road vehicles come to take us to Zangmu (2700m) tomorrow at 10am.

Everything is fine. They will also send a lorry for the equipment. When photographs are concerned, we haven’t sorted technical problem yet. Thanks to our neighbourhood where we sent photos from. This is first part (before the sunrise). Second part, photos from the Second step up to the summit, including a video clip, will be sent the day after tomorrow. Photographs are positioned next to appropriate climbing reports and in gallery.

We could not stop talking about anecdotes from climbing until very late at night. It is so nice to laugh at own mistakes and efforts when you reach safety and suffer no consequences after conquering the highest summit in the World.

There were simultaneous and spontaneous tears, hugs, congratulations, laughter in ABC… We are going to BC (5200m) today. It will take the whole day. Yesterday, yaks damaged our solar panels cables. This is why we cannot send you photographs and video clip from the top. In BC we have another set so we will try to send the entire material to our web address.

Such things do happen and I apologize. You had patience during the climb so be patient a bit more to see most beautiful photos produced by Petar Pecanac.

All expedition members feel great and are grateful for your support especially during the last few days.

Our guys and a girl have achieved success of Global proportions. Such project requires very extensive organization. Many people were involved in one or the other way and made this event globally visible.

Support that came from so many worldwide visitors of our site was of immense importance. All climbers are unanimous on this issue. Every single word of support sent either via SMS or e-mail brought some extra power. And such words were pouring from everywhere, pubs, home PCs, etc. Supporters continuously kept injecting additional, vast amount of positive energy to help team succeed. Such support is one more success of this expedition.

I believe that you will remember that night for the rest of your lives. It was the night in which we had the impression of standing at the summit together with our climbers. In the name of all people who took part in organization of Everest2007, I thank all of you who believed in this team and followed our attempt in that night.

Members have left C2 (7800m), passed C1 (7150m) and currently climb down towards ABC. Dr Gligor arrived first at about 12.30hrs. He looks fine. It is difficult to notice that he has just returned from 8848m. I must confess that I was worried for him more than for others!

Here in ABC we have already started packing equipment. Yaks are arriving tomorrow. The following day, caravan will leave towards BC (5200m).

Once again, thanks to all of you who sent so many phenomenal messages via satellite phone.

I have to mention one special call that came yesterday. He saw telephone number on our web site and decided to call: “Thank you for this achievement. Last time I felt like this was when we won American basketball dream team!”

We rightly predicted that climbing down may be even harder part than climbing up. Regardless of how difficult it is, the work simply has to be completed.

Expedition members got to C2 (7800m). They have plenty of oxygen, gas for cooking and food up there. They are tired and exhausted. Nevertheless, they have enough energy to work out required procedures at that altitude. We expect them to get to ABC (6400m) by tomorrow afternoon. Time for the expedition leader to get some sleep. Thanks for your last night support. Good night to all of you wherever you may be at this moment…

I have a feeling that neither members nor I are aware of the value of this achievement. It doesn’t matter. What matters is our happiness, those little things that make one happy. Historical achievement or not? We will let others to bring such judgment.

Members have stayed too long at the top which resulted in oxygen shortage after they had arrived at C3 (8300m). Due to tiredness and UV emission at such altitude, climbing down the Northern Crest also took too long.

In C3, they are making classic mistake described in many books about expedition alpinism. They get into tents but due to intensive heat inside and dehydration they all momentarily get asleep! At such altitude, this is extremely dangerous. I explained to Petar and Sonam via radio link that members have to continue climbing down to C2 (7800m) at any cost. Lower altitude makes thoughts clearer. Additionally, more oxygen was there waiting for overnight needs. However, talking is easy. Some climbers were in such state that it was immensely difficult to get to their consciousness and explain current situation. I know how difficult it is and that legs simply do not listen. In spite of that you simply have to continue climbing down even at turtle speed. I expect their arrival and more news from C2 (7800m) in about three hours.

Second half of the team is on the top!! Dragana Rajblovic, Milos Ivackovic, Dr Gligor Delev and Sherpas Lakhpa, Tarke and Sonam. Petar is still waiting since he wants to film some details with them. Milos phoned, his emotions simply exploded and he told me plenty of things that he hasn’t said to anybody, ever (Mina I am sorry!).

This is Everest, this is top of the World. It simply mobilizes some emotions that you are not even aware of. I simply replied: “Please be generous and cry out couple of tears for me too…” Petar is ‘loose’. I believe that he accumulated energy for the rest of his life! Dr Gligor still cannot believe what happened and where he is. Gaga is pure Zen Buddhism. Even if I live 500 years I would not be able to match her spiritual state.

Now the most important part. They need to climb down to C2 (7800m)! This is more difficult than climbing summit, you all know that! Thanks to all of you who followed tonight and kept supported us. Part of that energy has also climbed Everest! Now you should all go to sleep and we are going to monitor return of our heroes during the next 6-8 hours.

Ilija is waiting for his partner at the top who decided to film new “Jurassic Park”!!!

Petar is delighted with the atmosphere and doesn’t stop filming. I am trying to persuade him that he has to come back. Dragan and Basko have gone far away. So far they are on their way towards C3 (8300m). Milos has switched off his radio link so I don’t exactly how far they are from the top. But they are close, I can feel it.

Yeeeeesss…! Serbia is on the top of the World… Serbian flag is planted at the highest point of the planet. At the place above which only sky could be ‘touched’, stand Dragan Petric, Basar Carovac, Ilija Andrejic and Petar Pecanac!

The other part of the team is close. Gaga, Milos and Dr. Gligor are 30 minutes away from the top.

Sherpa Sonam spoke to me. I am sorry to say that Simo gave up at third step. I don’t know his reasons. Sonam just said that Simo could not continue. We find out his reasons when he comes back to ABC. Climbers who give up at such altitude are very rare.

No time for sleeping. Just a bit more. The sun has risen. Bola and I performed Pudja ceremony minutes ago. This is to bless completion of the successful climb.

Ten minutes ago I had audio and visual contact with Petar and Ilija. Petar explained where they were via radio. Then I took telescope and located them at the final crest! These are current news. At this moment, Dragan, Basko and their Sherpa Nima are reaching the summit. I expect them to ring from the top of the World at any minute. Petar, Ilija and Ang Sonam are right behind. Milos, Gaga and Lakhpa have passed Third Step and are climbing towards the final crest.

At this moment, Simo, Dr. Gligor and their Sherpa Sonam are at the Third step. The summit seems to be much closer.

I heard Petar via radio link. He is in front of the Third step. The sunrise made him speechless. I could here load of emotions in his voice. While we were talking, Milos joined conversation: “Have you forgotten me?” He is with Gaga. They’ve passed the Second step. Right behind are Simo and Dr. Gligor who are about to complete the Second step. Bravo!

Basko and Dragan got much further away. I keep watching their headlights at the final crest and expect them to get to the top in about hour, hour and a half. Team is harmonious which is the most important. Here at ABC, Marko has been helping the whole night. A minute ago he had fallen asleep. It is not easy for him.

-20.05.2007

05:42 (Local time)

Our guys and a girl are simply running towards the summit! Dragan and Basko have passed the Second step. Ilija and Petar are at the Second step right now! Milos and Gaga follow them. Gligor and Simo seem to be slightly behind. However, their pace is moderate.

Dragan Jacimovic

The Expedition Leader

20.05.2007

Impatient? This is not some boxing in which one knocks down the opponent and finishes quickly! Imagine what they feel at this moment? One move and then five times breath in, breath out. Patience. Proverb says that 'one is saved by patience'. Our climbers know this. The sun will rise soon and make things much easier. They will finally see where they are how much more they need to climb to conquer the summit. Soon...

20.05.2007

02.52 (Local time)

Photo: Petar Pecanac. See more photos in gallery

Milos has just rang. They have reached the First step (8530m) and are going towards well known Second step. This place could be very dangerous for climbing. Granite crest, voids and ice. All that in the middle of the nigh. One has to be careful when dealing with ropes. Large gloves make dealing with equipment harder. Current temperature is -41°C. I expect them to get in touch after they complete Second step.

Dragan Jacimovic

The Expedition Leader

20.05.2007

01.30 (Local time)

I would give anything to be up there with my team. Instead I remain in this communication tent and feel like trapped beast. They keep climbing and conquering meter by meter at their own, continuous pace. Every member with personal thoughts and dilemmas: "Am I going to make it?", "How long would it take before the sunrise?" "Why does the moon hide tonight?", "Relax, take it easy..."

Everything is according to our plan. Let's hope it remains like this...

Dragan Jacimovic

The Expedition Leader

19.05.2007

The moment Sirdar Bola and I performed Pudja in ABC for good luck to our heroes, Milos phoned. He could not resist: "You've chosen perfect night. Wish you were here to see how good it looks!" This is Milos. Enthusiasm, delightfulness, loving mountain, honesty. They are all together climbing towards the First step. All together and in harmony as usual.

Dragan Jacimovic

The Expedition Leader

I have just spoken to Petar and Milos. They’ve reached 8200m! I didn’t expect them to get to this height so quickly. Petar, Gaga, Milos, Basko, Ilija (The Dragon of Prijepolje) and Dragan are together. Simo and Dr. Gligor are approximately 30 minutes bellow. If these two continue to climb at current pace, they’ll arrive at C3 (8300m) on time and tonight commence final attempt with other members.

The weather is fine. Milos’ voice says that members are more than happy with current progress. We have even exchanged couple of jokes. I could hear Gaga heckling something from the distance. I am sorry about Marko. On his way from C2 to C1, he had to use oxygen. I sent one Sherpa from ABC to meet Marko and help him climb down. They are expected to get back in couple of hours. Marko isn’t mad at me for not being allowed to continue. This is unusual. Climber would usually claim that s/he could have continued and is angry at leader. On the contrary, Milos was realistic. Two of us will be monitoring others on their way to the top tonight. There will be no sleeping.

Team is getting closer to the eminent limit of 8000m! The wind is stronger but does not affect climbing.

While team is climbing in harmony, I would like to thank all of you who kept supporting us during the last two months but especially last two days. Thanks to everybody from Alaska to Australia and to all friends from Croatia, Bosnia, Montenegro, Macedonia and Serbia. Thanks to all members from Serbian Association of Mountaineers. Thanks to all friends who were with us during most difficult time…

Last night we didn’t send latest report. Namely, laptop switch on at very low temperature may easily die.

Marko was the only member who didn’t arrive at C2 (7800m). He only reached 7550m. Luckily, there was another expedition camp to accommodate him at this place. I sent Sherpa Lakhpa with some oxygen, food and cooker to get down to Marko. It didn’t take Lakhpa very long to climb down from C2. When he arrived, he got in touch by radio link. Marko is fine but I cannot allow him to continue. It is too risky to not only him but other members too. Marko and Lakhpa stayed in this camp over night. This morning, Marko continued down to ABC while Lakhpa went up to C3 (8300m) to join other members.

We didn’t have any problem overnight. Everybody used oxygen while sleeping. When other members are concerned, only Simo and Dr Gligor are much slower than others are. They also do not respect some agreements that we made at ABC. This afternoon I’ll consider whether to allow them to continue or not.

At 11.30 local time (+ 6hrs in Serbia), all members have left C2 (7800m) and went climbing towards C3 (8300m). Of course, Simo and Dr Gligor left 30 minutes later. At 12.15h, Petar rang to tell us that the group was together. Simo and Dr Gligor were some 100m bellow.

No clouds in the sky, wind 10km/h, temperature -24°C. Weather forecast is confirmed for the next two days. Everything is OK. The weather cannot be better.

We faced serious problem at C1 (7150m) yesterday. Luckily, we got it sorted with no consequences. After we had arrived at North Cool, we realised that all our tents were buried by new snow and constructions broken! Luckily, we have friends to borrow tents from. Just for one night. However, we had to dig out some equipment, cookers and food. Since it was all properly done, we continued according to our plan today. I spoke with C1 via radio link at 9am. Milos reported that everything was OK. While we were talking, team was engaged in melting snow needed for climb to C2.

First members left C1 (7150m) towards C2 (7800m). At 12am, Milos reported that all members have left North Cool. At about 12.10, he and Marko are the last to set off towards C2 (7800m). Northern Saddle is sunny and clear. However, at above 7500m complete cloudiness but with no snowing is reported. Weather forecast is suitable for climbing. Currently, in addition to our climbers five Russians from “7summits club”expedition are climbing towards C2. It is not crowded as much as it was on 15/16 May.

At 14hrs, local time, my team has left ABC (6400m) towards C1 (7150m). This could mean just one thing: They commenced summit climbing!

After we had spent about 50 days in the foothills of the highest mountain in the World the day has come. During the last ten days, I felt anxious. Taking into account unstable weather and other complications, decision making wasn’t easy. In fact, easy decisions do not even exist here. After I had evaluated all pros and cons not less than hundred times and worked out that our ‘summit day’ is 20. May, I can say that I feel better.

Responsibility remains. On their way to the summit, there may be many minor dilemmas. During next 72 hours, I will be using radio link to control the situation and help team succeed. I have done it before and so looking forward to this challenge.

All team members are more than ready. Today when I saw them off, while throwing rise at ‘Pudja’ I also had a feeling, that team couldn’t wait for this moment to come. This is good.

If they keep using such positive energy during the climb, this is more than good. In days to come, Milos is going to be the leader, my ears and eyes. Others are split into teams according to their own choice: Ilija and Petar, Basko and Dragan, Marko and Gaga and Dr.Gligor and Simo.

Sherpas: Nima, Sonam, Lakhpa and others will join our climbers at C3 (8300m). From tomorrow, we will be sending reports several times a day. Live broadcast is commencing on Saturday night. Therefore, on Saturday/Sunday (19th/20th May) we will find out whether this brave team will realize their dream and would they plant Serbian flag on the top of the World - Mt. Everest (8848m).

On Saturday at 17hrs, (23hrs local time) team begins final climb. Right from the beginning until 02hrs Sunday (08hrs – local time expected to conquer the summit), ‘on-line’ broadcast will be organised in a restaurant ‘Biblioteka’ at Terazije square in Belgrade. Whoever feels like coming to follow our attempt is welcome. At the summit, somebody from the team will phone spectators on-line by satellite phone.

In addition to two lost lives at southern Nepal side, Sagarmatha claimed first casualty at northern crest. Japanese climber lost his life at about second slope (8600m).

Their camp, which is right next to us, is completely silent. Our friend Manuel commenced his attempt this morning. It is 12hrs now. We are worried since he hasn’t contacted us by radio yet. It is probably due to battery only. We expect him to contact us by the evening. Today our team walked to fixed ropes point at Northern Saddle (North Cool) again.

Everybody is in good health but impatience is noticeable. The moment we commence final climb everything will be fine. Here in ABC we have rehearsed summit-climbing procedure several times. We do it frequently. What to do, what not to do, what are the procedures in every high altitude camp, what must not be forgotten, etc.

I hope that nothing will be forgotten. This is what team-mates are for – to remind, if necessary.

I told them to walk to fixed ropes at North Col. One has to be active at above 6000m altitude.

Since nobody knows how long would it take before we see suitable weather, physical activity is needed as much as our daily food intake.

The weather changes several times during the day. Nevertheless, team spirit is very good. Laugher seems to be the best mechanism to defend against temptations. We are continuing…

It started with snowing, and then we saw some sun, which eventually won, against clouds. It remained sunny for the rest of the day. Everybody went to “crampons point” for some leg stretching. Petar had prepared photographs and then joined others. Sirdar Bola would like to go home. I can see that from his behaviour. He is standing next to me all the time continuously asking the same question: “When will you be going?” It seems that I have more respect for this mountain than he does regardless of what they call the mountain in his mother tongue – ‘Goddess of the Universe’.

Expedition members are well prepared. Many expeditions had many give ups due to health problems. This is not unusual at Everest. We keep maintaining good team spirit and calming those that are inpatient. Yes, we do have them but day after day they seem to be more and more persuaded that one cannot go against the nature and win.

Milos is celebrating his birthday today. Our chef will make a cake for that occasion. I am sitting in ABC, watching around and cannot believe my eyes. People are streaming towards C1 with the aim to attempt summit 15th and 16th May.

Those not informed should learn that at such wind and altitude above 8000m, frostbiting is almost 99% certain. Aiming Everest is some kind of madness, no doubt.

Many people told me: “I know that it is not good time but I have to try. I must feel that atmosphere”.

During the day we checked all masks, regulators and oxygen bottles. Everybody got one set to look after until we get to C2 and start using it.

Sherpas, Sirdar and I had separate meeting. I wish everything goes as smooth as making deals with these people!

Our high altitude camps are settled as well as 45 oxygen bottles equally distributed between tents.

Equipment is ready, we are ready and so our high altitude Sherpas are. On Sagarmatha command we commence our climb.

Today after lunch, we are leaving BC and going to ABC. The plan is to spend next night at Middle camp and arrive at ABC (6400m) tomorrow around 14hrs. Getting closer to the mountains makes decision bringing less difficult.

Situation will be a lot clearer up there and in the next couple of days we’ll make the decision about when to commence climb to the top.

Most expeditions are rushing to get there by 15th-16th May (‘summit day’). It is estimated that 100 climbers will attempt the summit that day.

In such crowd there is a great danger of getting frostbiting since at first and second slope one may wait up to 1 hour.

We keep preparing for ABC. I had some consultations with few other expedition leaders. The more people the more different opinions. Alex, the leader of “7summitsclub” seems to be the only person sharing my opinion. Others are in great rush. It is yet to be seen. There is plenty of time until the end of May. I am sure that at least one day will be good enough for climbing the summit.

Today I asked the expedition members: “What do you thing the best weather forecast is?”

We returned to BC yesterday. Today is V-Day. We are invited to a party that Russians organise in their camp. Such invitation has to be accepted, of course.

While I was typing the report in my tent, Marko and Petar came to tell me in a single voice: “Hey, Manuel claims to have accurate information that 13th and 14th are good dates but it is forecasted some bad weather for 16th and 17th. He leaves today to make it on time.”

So it started! The closer to the summit the more “accurate” information, anxiety in camp and even foolishness. Those with less patience, nearly run towards high altitude camps. It looks like there is a bus to the summit that may leave without us…

I know that days to come will bring many different weather forecasts. I also know the atmosphere that this will create in camps.

Nevertheless, this is usual. Things are not always the way they look at first glimpse. Give it a couple of days and everything is going to look different…

Reports for these days could be read when the expedition is over, by the end of May. In addition to text, you’ll see many photos. Why then and not before? When you read text and see photos, you’ll understand. In the meantime, click here >> to see our new video clip.

It was snowing and storming yesterday but today we have a lovely day. Current activities in BC? Some are washing clothes while others are having a shower. We also have some who swore that there would be no bathing before the end of the expedition. A few are healing face burns got while being in high altitude camps. I advised the other group to take a walk to nearby ‘hill’. It is not good to remain passive during resting period. At this height, muscles atrophy easier, which in addition to intense toxification of muscles during exhausting activities may lead to muscle strains and cracks?

Chinese continuously prepare for 2008 Olympics. There is a brand new small city in BC.

Nearly ten official 4x4 vehicles visit them daily. It looks impressive although I haven’t seen many in the mountains.

So far, we have received many supporting e-mails and countless text messages on satellite phone. My team and I are very grateful on such support. Nevertheless, I noticed one interesting thing in very many messages. It is not only that certain people know everything but also claim best know-how. These keep advising me on how to lead the expedition. Thanks for that effort but there is a problem here. Sitting in comfortable chair in front of the PC and reading latest reports undoubtedly triggers many ideas, “I would do it this or that way…”

Nevertheless, advising without sharing responsibility is entirely different thing. This is not computer game in which by pressing certain buttons some lives are lost but others won.

We operate in cruel reality where even the most innocent decision has certain weight. Each decision bears appropriate responsibility. Deposit is nothing less than human lives. The latest issue is something that my ‘advisors’ should take into account since our positions are entirely different. Please think about this…

Tomorrow is St George’s day and we plan to wake up early. We are not climbing up but down into the valley. We will stay there for two to three days before we return to BC. In the meantime, you will not be receiving reports since we intend to focus on mental relaxation and forget all about difficulties that we are and will be facing. The mountain isn’t going anywhere. The mountain as well as our doubts, tensions and fear will be waiting for us.

We have returned to BC. What a relief. Today, somebody suggested to building volleyball ground here at 5170m!! I wonder about the material to use for the ball. In fact duct tape plus couple of dirty shirts, may do the job. After they had spent time at 7500m, they feel at home and such suggestions and combinations do not surprise me.

Back at ABC, we met interesting Canadian whose name was Manuel Pizarro (Chilean origin). In this camp, we have two BGANs and fastest access to satellite but both our laptops are out of order. Mani has perfect PC specially produced for high altitudes but with no satellite link. This is how partnership in the middle of nowhere was born. Both, he and we will be sending reports from the same address. From today, you can enjoy Petar Pecanac photos again.

Half of the expedition has gone. We did acclimatization that simply could not be better. The moment we had finished our activities at high altitude camps, bad weather started and lasted for seven days. Tibetan calendar teaches us that first week after the full moon brings bad weather by default. It really happens. Were we lucky in regards to weather so far? I would not call it that way. It is because this expedition does not blindly stick to day-to-day calendar. We rather adjust to nature and its laws. This isn’t easy. One has to be active and patient. Ten days ago, after strong wind at Northern saddle, I said to my team that we would return to BC. Some thought: “Going down would not be difficult but who on Earth would climb back to 6400m”.

Now when they see results on themselves their faces do not hide satisfaction. We are back at BC again. This time nobody asks: “Why?”

While I am typing this, volleyball match is about to start in front of my tent. These are positive effect of acclimatization. Result isn’t important but the atmosphere.

After we had climbed 7500, we returned to ABC. With this acclimatization done we are returning to BC to rest and wait for the final climb to commence. Everybody took the acclimatization well. When it comes to high altitude camp C2, we decided to assemble it at 7700m.

Did you really think that we would not celebrate May 1? We also woke up early. It was nice weather and we managed to climb northern crest (7500m) and assemble C2. OK, one doesn’t have lamb, barbeque and beer but melted snow and soups will do J. Today’s altitude difference isn’t as high as it used to be in recent days but distance crossed is more or less the same. Now we have two high altitude camps. C3 and C4 are yet to be assembled. We hope to have the same beautiful weather in days to come. Continual progress towards the summit raises team optimism beyond one’s imagination. Motivation grows with every high altitude camp. The latest is extremely important when it comes to such hard and demanding expedition. Even more important issue is that all members feel well.

Regards to everybody in Serbia. The entire team wishes you happy May 1. Have a nice time!

Finally at C1! Comparing to previous days, we had ideal conditions for climbing today. It was cloudy, no wind, temperature -5°C. We deserve such reward for being patient.

Team had no problem to climb from ABC to C1. Currently, everybody is engaged in melting snow to prepare some tea and soup. We assembled our first high altitude camp, today. This also brings psychological advantage to team members, since it wasn't easy to sit and wait for weather improvements for several days. OK we had some nice time at BC but we came here for different reason – climbing. This is one major step closer to the summit. 1700m 'only' remains to reach the top. If we had not believed that we could do it, we would not have come. Hope that good weather and good health stay with us.

It seems that you have sent some of your beautiful Serbian weather. Himalaya is hundreds of miles away and I understand why it took so long for such weather to arrive.

Who says that early morning weather describes the rest of the day? This morning was sunny but in the afternoon, it started snowing. Such change does not disturb our plans since we have decided to rest in ABC for a day after yesterdays exhausting climb. Then we will continue to northern saddle. Hope it will stop snowing until tomorrow. If it does, we will continue to C1 (7150m).

After we had spent five days at BC we returned to ABC! Obviously, resting, cream and plazma worked very well since we climbed from BC to ABC, which is nearly 1400m altitude, in just 9 hours. Since weather is improving we aim to continue and try to assemble C1 either tomorrow or the following day.

Today is Marko’s birthday. We haven’t prepared anything special but I believe that view from Everest would do although it would come a bit late J. Basko and Dr. Gligor finally got hold of their cards. Now we can expect occasional duels. All members feel well. Hope to get in touch from C1 soon.

After we had spent five days at ABC (6400m) and northern saddle and being exposed to cold wind, we returned to BC Everest (5170m). This is not ‘retrieval’ and there is no need to worry. It is to do with tactics that hasn’t been seen here at Everest yet J. Actually, it is very simple: If the expedition fails it is the expedition leader to be blamed J. However, expedition members succeeding in desired mission to reach the place above the clouds we keep watching every day, they would be heroes.

Here at BC, we peacefully develop all possible options to continue climb. It is not wise the one who is fast, strong and brave only but the one who is also patient, peaceful and calm too. It is not easy to be wise at roots of such mighty mountain such as Sagarmatha. The one taken by emotions and enthusiasm could easily burn in just couple of days and then ‘good bye mountain lets go fishing :-)

Time at BC we spend socializing with members of other expeditions, searching the neighbourhood (taking care that Chinese Army doesn’t arrest us), visiting Rongbuk monastery, etc. Well known big men who back at home don’t even know how to switch on washing machine, here wash clothes. Some even had bath. Brave, no doubt. This morning, Ilija woke up early and together with our chef Rats-Khumar prepared sataras dish for the entire team!!

Basko and Dr Gligor forgot cards at ABC and now feel sorry about missed opportunity to continue duel. Gaga consumed all reserves of Euro Cream and only Marko ‘strongly’ objected to it. “Children cannot understand the meaning of only several kilograms of chocolate cream J”!!

Simo persistently follows BBC news using his Hi-tech radio J. He constantly briefs us about worldwide happenings regardless of our ignorance.

Both HDDs in two laptops are on ’strike’ but we are patiently waiting for their ‘acclimatisation’. (Thanks to: Boki (Grid), Shone i Deki (EST), Sale and Vlada (Asbis), Joe (Ekosan), Vlada (Petrov),...). Long live the DHL!! (Hurry up, Iswari is waiting at Katmandu...)

By the way, we are the only team with two RBGANs but no laptop. It makes one feel similar to Duffy Duck: "First we have cans but no can opener, then vice versa..."

As you see, in spite of all difficulties, team retained pretty good spirit. We even trained one Tibetan eagle to deliver this letter to our webmaster. He only has to type couple of sentences and press enter.

Next message will be delivered when eagle recovers from hard and long distance flying, providing it doesn’t get shot by some brave Serbian hunter while flying over Stara Planina J.

We are still resting in BC. Other expeditions follow ‘our example’ and come to BC in order to hide away from strong winds. This isn’t unusual and does not have an effect on overall climbing schedule. When climbing summits above 8000m is concerned it is not only normal but also necessary to keep climbing up and down from and to ‘BCs’ and ‘ABCs’. This is not only to achieve better acclimatization but also to save the body from useless sitting at one of high altitude camp. Hence, such expeditions require patience and mental readiness.

All team members are well. Everybody has some entertainment to kill time. One thing is certain, all members are determined to succeed and send you so wanted photograph with the flag, at the summit.

Due to strong wind that doesn’t seem to be getting any weaker at northern saddle, we decided to get down to BC. We will be resting during the next three days waiting for suitable weather conditions to climb to northern saddle and assemble C1. All members feel well and so far, we do not have any problems. Short break at BC will be much appreciated and used to restore body strength.

We know how much you support us. Your words mean very much to us. In addition to physical preparation for such adventure mental readiness is more than necessary. Football team needs 12th player while we need you to be our 11th member.

Our team members have climbed northern saddle but strong wind nearly blown them away. Instead of sleeping at 7150m, they are currently drinking tea at ABC. Wise decision.

Problems with the equipment have returned. Even second laptop has gone yesterday after we had finally enabled satellite modem. Obviously, it is not destined to be lucky with the equipment this time. If this is the price for successful outcome of the expedition, then let it be. >From now onwards, we will be sending reports by satellite phone to keep you informed about the expedition progress. In regards to that, we will use any possibility to enable second laptop and use other alternative ways to send reports, photographs and video clips.

It didn’t stop snowing today putting activities in ABC at minimum. Such circumstances aren’t very amusing and members remain in their tents. Luckily, this experienced team has been carefully selected and easily copes with such boring time.

We are still adjusting to current altitude. Tiny headache is still felt in the morning but seems to die away during the day. A cloud covered sunrise above the northeast crest this morning making everybody feel that time for breakfast hasn’t come yet.

However, ABC chef Bahadur did not get confused and started signalling that the breakfast is ready by tapping the plate. After the meal I had a meeting with Sherpas climbers. The agenda was to clearly define their responsibilities during the following twenty days. They insisted to have written list of what I want them to take to the high altitude camps claiming that it makes their life much easier. The rest of the team walked towards north saddle for some acclimatization while I stayed to prepare reports for our site. We sent our first video clip. It will be available to access at our web address tomorrow. On behalf of the entire team I thank all of you who keep sending support letters and messages daily. I have to stop now. Petar is warning me about the sunset! Namely, technology we use is to be protected from condensation that could easily block hard disc.

Sunrise at ABC happens somewhat earlier than down at BC. No member has slept very well. Doctor is the only one to claims to have the best ever night! During breakfast, Bola brought some bad news. Sherpa Lakpa Tharke got ill and has to go back to BC. I sent Sonam to escort him, just in case. He neither has high temperature, symptoms of high altitude illness nor weakness. Occasionally, he cannot see and such state lasts for couple of seconds. Our doctor examined him and found nothing wrong. Still, it is better for him to walk back and take some rest. We assembled tent for communication today. We move in slow-motion mode. When one works at this height at atmospheric pressure of as little as 464 mbar, dehydration seems obvious. From Sirdar Anila from British expedition Adventure Peak I learnt that they have many ill members. Some even breathe oxygen. Our members do not have such problems. I hope this will remain the case. It is very important for people to be in good health during acclimatization up to 7500m.

The morning in camp was sunny. In the afternoon, we had some low intensity snow. Finally, we managed to get our satellite modem sorted! We will keep sending texts and photographs about local happenings every day. The plan is to start sending video clips tomorrow.

Yaks woke me up. Approximately thirty yaks have slept together between our tents. Morning sky above our glacier was completely clear from clouds. Only now I see where we spent the night. Our tents are founded into rocky ground of moraine while at the other side greenish icy seracs are twinkling. Some of them are taller than 50m. We made a mistake yesterday by arriving at camp earlier than yaks and hence had to wait for them for over two hours to bring our tents. Today I let them go before us while we had time to enjoy six hour walk to ABC (6400m). If other expedition members read that we named climb to ABC “walk” it could have been very annoying to them. Many of them didn’t take this altitude very well and had to return to BC (5170m) tomorrow. After we had arrived at extended base camp, first thing that I noticed was the position of our camp and tents. I had two reasons to congratulated Sirdar Bola. First, he picked the location close to north saddle. Second, even the earliest sunrise illuminates our tents.

Due to tiredness, Basko and Gligor didn’t continue their cards game. First night at this altitude by default brings some headache and not so good sleep. Tomorrow, everything will be fine.